If you really want to take your pet with you for a trip, then you need to have a suitable pet carrier for the trip. You could just go with a standard carrying crate, but I bet you’ll want your pets to travel in a much higher level of comfort. The good news is that there are plenty of carriers available that will be able to stand up to the rigors of air travel while providing.
The first step is to go online and find a good niche store that has a full catalog of carriers. You will want to see everything that they have to offer before you commit. Most even have specific sections for airline pet carriers, so it should be easy to find what you need. Once the catalog is up, then it’s just a matter of picking your color and ensuring that the size is just right. You will also want to make sure that it has a comfortable interior for your pet, but that should be standard for most of the better carriers.
After you pick one, it’s basically done. Just order and pay. Your carrier will arrive soon and you’ll be ready to do. You may wish to confirm that it’s an airline approved carrier before you buy. It should only take a phone call to double check. Everything else should be fine though.
Most birds follow the same technique whether on land or water, domestic or wild, because that is the way they are tuned (few birds actually mate in the air while flying).
After breed specific courting rituals, the male will “mount” the female… they usually grab some neck feathers of the female “pinning” her, then clamber on to her back. Some will tread with the feet and wag the tail with fervor. The willing female goes submissive and moves her tail to the side to allow easier access. The hen will do a bit of body twist, but how the male attains penetration was always beyond my line of sight. It is a very brief connection in actuallity, and though awkward and regularly comical, it is effective.
The avian male organ is a thin, fleshy, corkscrew that is normally carried up in a body cavity just inside the cloaca until used. Sometimes after mating it will hang in the breeze momentarily until retracted.
The cloaca is the orifice that all birds share (and close cousins such as reptiles). It is the waste vent, genital orifice, and egg exit (birth canal), all in one.
Waterfowl do not have to leave the water to mate and favor it, though they will also mate on land. Ground birds such as chickens prefer solid footing. “Tree birds” will occasionally lose their grip and “free fall” off of their perches while still mating and then continue to fly.
Chickens are not monogamous and the ratio of males to females can be up to 1:20. Ducks 1:5. (servicable breeding for farm utility). Geese are monogamous and mate for life, though they have occasionally been induced to accept another mate after mourning and a lengthy separation. Pigeons are monogamous until their mate is absent for a breeding cycle (30 days) or two.
If you do a search for “hatcheries” or particular chicken breeds, you may find useful links. I have yet to find any that actually explains the physical act of breeding.
This information comes from my personal experience and acquired education. I had a farmstead where I raised chickens, ducks, and geese among other things. I am soon to embark on raising Modena and King Show Pigeons and so have done my research into their husbandry.
I hope you find this informative, but must leave it to you to find your own useful links for reference.
ADDED: For the curious: The eggs we eat are not fertilized because they are mostly commercially produced by hens in batteries of cages and tended production line style. Efficiency = profit, hence the outcry for the inhumane husbandry of the majority of our animal food products. A fertilized egg may also have “unappetizing” spots and blood clots (which occasionally appear from a spent bird also), so these are separated out. Eggs are “candled” to see inside the shell and those with inclusions go to manufactured egg products.
Some eggs fresh from a “Family farm” may very well be fertilized since most allow their rooster(s) to intermingle with the hens due to the need to produce progeny (chicks) to sustain the flock. However, in some operations, breeding is usually planned and the “broody hens” are separated into their own pens so as not to use fertilized eggs for food.
Once a production hen’s egg output declines to inefficiency or she proves to be a poor layer, she becomes food. Most “chickens” in the market are actually young roosters and spent hens.
I have a 6-7 month kittens and still wont use the potty box, and really she hasnt even gone. my dog keeps cleaning her butt so maybe she goes when she does that.. but thats just gross.
If the kitten was born and raised outside, they may have a tendency to want to maintain those outside habits inside your home. You may find that they might try and use your plants as a litter box. A kitten that was born and raised, for the first several weeks, inside by its mother will have the advantage of its mother’s help in the litter training process, and other domestications. Kittens, generally, can begin to use a litter box at about four weeks of age, and a kitten being raised without its mother or adult cat will take slightly longer to litter train; so, keep this in mind when you begin the task of litter training your kitten.
- Place the kitten in the box 1/2 hour after play or meals.
- Stimulate interest in the litter by stirring it.
- Let the kitten jump in and out of the litter box instead of restraining him.
- Place some stool in the litter box (builds associations between litter box and bathroom needs).
- Use a litter with pellets as these mask the wet feel.
- When accidents occur, pick up the feces and put it in the litter box. Always thoroughly clean the floor.
Cats are naturally a remarkably clean and fastidious animal and will usually learn quite quickly how to use a litter tray. Some kittens can be put in the litter tray and they instinctively go back there but others simply refuse to use the litter tray and will always find a nice corner of the room. The other problem here is that once one of the kittens starts using a corner of the room, the other may think that they should be using it too.
You really need to spend a fair amount of time with the kittens continually picking them up after eating or drinking and putting them in the litter tray. You can also buy a spray that attracts them to the litter tray. Cat urine does not do the carpets any good and if you allow the cat to continually use the corner of a room, you will soon find that the carpet discolors and you can never really get rid of that awful smell.
You could use a “pet behave spray” which is basically a spray that can be applied to any soft furnishing - carpets, stairs, settees etc and will deter the cat from going near as they hate the smell. You will also need to clean the litter tray daily if you have more than one cat. The only solution is perseverance and a willingness to clean up a lot of cat waste before they finally learn where they are supposed to go! You should never scold a young cat for fouling in the wrong place and certainly never rub its nose in it.
… and for accidents, here are some odor removing tips:
Remember, a cat’s sense of smell is fourteen times stronger than that of a human. This is why it is so important for you to thoroughly clean the urine spots. Even if you can’t smell it, your cat probably still smells the urine in the carpet, and this can make them want to “re-mark” that spot over and over.
To remove the smell of urine from just about anything, first clean it with some sort of soap or kitchen cleaner. Then clean it with lemon juice. If you don’t like the smell of lemon juice follow it up with a little bit of vanilla extract. One of the most effective formulas I’ve found for removing ANY odor was from Popular Science Magazine. Mix 1 quart of Hydrogen Peroxide, with 1/4 cup of Baking Soda, and one tablespoon of liquid dishwashing soap. Saturate the affected area, rinse thoroughly with clean water, and the smell is gone. This is non-toxic and safe for your animals and children, and those with allergies. This is especially helpful for removing skunk odor from your outdoor animals. As always, test a small portion of fabric for color fastness, before treating a large area.
What Won’t Work… There are many home remedies for treating pet stains and odors, and let me stress that most of them are not too bad as far as removing odors for humans’ noses. Vinegar, ammonia, baking soda, laundry detergents, lemon juice, fabric softeners, and commercial strength pet stain removers are all great for removing the odors that humans can smell. However; you will need more to remove the odor for your cat’s nose. An enzymatic cleaner is the best answer, but it is slow and may take more than one application, (Nature’s Miracle is one of them). The Hydrogen Peroxide/Baking Soda combo is fast, but can alter the colors of some fabrics. In the end, you must decide which application is best for your situation.
Even if you clean a pet stain with soap and water certain micro-organisms remain behind and your pet can smell them. Enzymatic Cleaners are designed to completely eliminate the source of the odor by using enzymes to eat away the micro-organisms that cause the odor. The one drawback to these cleaners is that they are slow; it could take several weeks for them to completely eliminate an odor. Enzymantic Cleaners are available at most pet stores, organic/natural/health food stores, and even some hardware stores. You can also ask your vet for suppliers.
My Beta fish is a very healthy fish right now except for his fin rot.. which is clearing up slowly but its getting there
Im worried because If I have to end up evacuating for a hurricane
since I live near New Orleans, Louisiana that he will die because I cannot bring him with me to evacuate
he most likely would not be happy in a car … his water would be swaying all over the place.
How long can My beta fish go without eating?
If it is a bad hurricane we could possibly be gone for a couple weeks.. if not 3.
Im VERY worried
What I should do with my beta fish
I would FEEL guilty having him die since I cannot bring him
Adding another voice to the “take them with you”.
I am in the process of moving nearly 380 miles. I will be packing my ryukin and oranda goldfish and bringing them with me. Since it is a long truck ride in summer- I’ll be keeping their container away from the air vents, and also using a car adapter to run my air-stone.
More on how to move fish safely here: http://www.bestfish.com/moving.html
One last thought on evacuations; there is usually some advanced warning that one might be coming.
While things are calm; put an ‘emergency kit’ together for the fish:
- A 2-5 gallon rubber-maid tub with lid (cut 2-3 ‘quarter-sized’ holes in the lid)
- A small waterproof carry-pouch with a strap.
- Store a small thing of fish food, water conditioner, and some water test strips in the pouch; keep this ready to grab with the tub along with some big plastic baggies.
- In case of emergency- dump the fish and tank water into the container, put the lid on, grab the pouch and extra filter and go.
- Grab some of the gravel and ornaments from the tank. Put those in the plastic baggies.
- The fish can travel and stay in the container until you get it back home, or moved into another tank if necessary.
- When you get to a stable place like a hotel- keep the fish in the tub, but set up with the filter, gravel, and plants/decorations. Only feed the fish lightly and clear extra food to keep water quality high.
As soon as you get those warnings you might be in an evac. zone- clean the fish tank, drop down to feeding the fish 1 small meal a day, and get your travel kit ready to grab. This way if you do have to net, grab, and go- you can do so quickly. One thing they learned from 2005- its much better to let people bring their pets with them in-case of an extended absence like you are describing.
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I just moved 1200 miles over four days with 5 ferrets, two snakes, a lizard, a betta, and an African Dwarf Frog. The beta and ADF went in a five gallon bucket (very readily available at any hardware store - make sure you thoroughly rinse it with hot water). We filled it about 3/4 of the way and the lid had a little screw on cap that we left off for the ride so fresh air could get in there. Being your betta can easily breathe from the surface, this would be fine. When we stayed in a hotel overnight, we set up the little filter we had in their tank in the bucket (a small Whisper 3i). We fed them very sparingly, only as much as they would finish in that serving. And what they didn’t finish, we siphoned out that night during the daily siphoning. Leaving food and waste in the bucket allows ammonia to build up, which will kill the fish. Every other day, we changed out about a third of the water, conditioning the new water and matching its temperature. The water did slosh around a little, quite a bit in some areas, but they made it fine. And now they’re both perfectly healthy.
If you decide to go the bucket route, do make sure you regularly change out some of the water to fight the buildup of ammonia. Also make sure to remove waste via siphoning at least every other day, daily is better.
Not feeding a betta for two or three weeks results in a dead betta. So the bucket’s worth a shot.
i have a male beta, and today i bought a black fantail molly, my question is; will they be able to live in a large fishbowl together peacefully? Also, i usually let the water sit out for a few days before adding it to the bowl, and today, i used a larger fishbowl and i didn’t have enough water. So i had to use straight tap water. Will they be okay?
firstly,mollies require different waterconditions than bettas,all water going into tank,or fishbowl,should be treated first.untreated water contains all sorts of chemicals,to make it drinkable for humans.not good for fish.most,if not all ,petstores have some sort of water conditioners.most fishkeepers are not keen on fishbowls because they are limited in their uses.tanks[aquariums]hold more water,therefor more stable conditions.
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Don’t use straight tap water without adding water conditioner; plain tap water contains all sorts of chemicals that will kill your fish very quickly (such as chlorine.) Mollies can be aggressive with other fish, so keeping one with a betta is risky. Bettas are solitary by nature, so it’s best to keep one male by himself, apart from other fish. He won’t be ‘lonely’ and he won’t pine for a friend. If you want to keep them together just to cut back on the number of bowls/tanks you’ll have to clean, surprise - more fish means more frequent water changes anyway. Besides, mollies aren’t labyrinth fish - they really can’t be kept in still water with no filtration/aeration like bettas can. Research, research, research.
My cat eats Iams dry cat food. She is finishing up the Original formula Chicken flavor right now. I bought her a new bag about a month ago and just realized it’s Original formula, but it’s Fish flavor. When I make the switch will she start throwing up because it’s different? Should I start slowly incorporating it into her food now?
It can’t hurt to switch slowly in case something in this formula ends up being upsetting to her. I’d switch brands entirely though, as Iams is not a very high quality food.
Try a high quality, human grade food like: Innova, Wellness, Felidae, or Solid Gold.
If switching to a better brand, you definitely need to convert slowly so as not to upset her stomach.
The reason wet food is better for cats is because it better mimics their natural diet. Wild cats take in most of their moisture directly through their prey and do very little actual drinking. Cats have a very low thirst drive, so if you’re feeding dry, they often aren’t taking in enough water. Low grade dehydration like that can cause many problems including urinary tract infections.
The stuff about dry food being better because it “cleans teeth” is a complete myth. Kibble does nothing to clean teeth, whether you are feeding wet or dry your cat will still need her teeth brushed and regular tooth cleanings at a vet.
Nutrition since there are so many bad things out there is very important to your cat’s health
Contrary to what you may have heard; dry foods are not a great thing to feed a cat.
Please read the label on what you are feeding? What are the ingredients? Do you know what they mean? Is the first ingrdiant a muscle meat like chicken or meal or other things? http://www.catinfo.org/#Learn_How_To_Rea… http://iml.jou.ufl.edu/projects/Spring04…
Dry foods are the number 1 cause of diabetes in cats as well as being a huge contributing factor to kidney disease, obesity, crystals, u.t.i’s and a host of other problems. Food allergies are very common when feeding dry foods. Rashes, scabs behind the tail and on the chin are all symptoms
The problems associated with Dry food is that they are loaded with grains and carbohydrates which many cats (carnivores) cannot process. Also, Most of the moisture a cat needs is suppose to be in the food but in
Dry, 95% of it is zapped out of dry foods in the processing. Another thing, most use horrible ingredients and don’t use a muscle meat as the primary ingredient and use vegetable based protein versus animal. Not good for an animal that has to eat meat to survive. http://www.catinfo.org/#My_Cat_is_Doing_…
You want to pick a canned food w/o gravy (gravy=carbs) that uses a muscle meat as the first ingredient and doesn’t have corn at least in the first 3 ingredients if at all. The best food for cats does not contain any grains at all.
Fancy feast is a middle grade food with 9lives, friskies whiskas lower grade canned and wellness and merrick upper grade human quality foods. I would rather feed a middle grade canned food then the top of the line dry food.
Also, dry food is not proven to be better for teeth. Does a hard pretzel clean your teeth or do pieces of it get stuck? http://www.felinefuture.com/nutrition/bp…
Vetinarian diets The reason your vet thinks so highly of the pet food they sell probably has more to do with money than nutrition. In vet school, the only classes offered on nutrition usually last a few weeks, and are taught by representatives from the pet food companies. Vet students may also receive free food for their own dogs and cats at home. They could get an Iams notebook, a Purina purse and some free pizza. http://iml.jou.ufl.edu/projects/Spring04…
a badger lives underground, badgers are capable of fighting off bigger animals such as bears. Badgers eat pocket gophers, squirrels, etc. Badgers have long claws. An otter is slimmer than the badger, and spends a lot of time in water, the otter has small webbed feet. they eat mostly fish. A beaver has big teeth. they chew on wood for two reasons- they have to keep their teeth at a good size, otherwise they will grow and curl into their head. they also make dams with the wood. That is where the beaver lives. they have dens inside their dams. A beaver is different from these other two because it doesnt eat meat. it eats mostly bark, twigs, and leaves. Hope this helps.
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badgers burrow underground like rabbits and are black and white.
Otters are brown, live on land but hunt fish in the sea or a lake/river they live in holes in the banks of the river or seashore.
beavers are also brown chew down trees and build a home across the river called a dam (like a man made dam, same purpose - slow the flow of the river to make a deep pool one side so they can fish easy) they build with the wood and mud, they live in their dam and eat fish!
2.I know this isn’t a fish, but you should consider getting African mini-frogs. They are fun to watch and play well with other fish.
3.Maybe 3 or 4 African cichlids. 20 is too small for Dempseys and large cichlids.
4.Damzels
5.female betta are nice, you can find them in pretty colors if you look hard, and lots of little guys like neons and tetras are pretty easy
6.I don’t know much about fish. But one thing I do know is get fish that can mix together. They say three of the same.
7.The cute little mini sharks.
8.cichlids are mean dont get them!!!! i have some danio’s platty’s those are the ones i have had the best luck with. but make sure to get a succker fish or and algi eater also… snails aren’t that great.
No I don’t and you wouldn’t either if you gave them a chance.
OMG yes! and cat ppl get insulted when i get scared of their cats
as to why? i dunno something in the eyes, the way they strut…the whole superstition thing about them…..both my siblings claim they saw a black cat in their room when they awoke in the mid of the night and everything in the house was locked…both were on different occasions
I definitely find cats creepy. I couldn’t tell you exactly why, but I think it is because they remind me of evil magic( you know black cats and witches).
I love cats! Had cats all my life! Never had a dog. Cats are so cool!
I find them intriguing! You never know what is going on in that head. And their eyes are just stunning! It is kinda creepy when they jump up and do the crazy cat run without any provocation, but hell, it’s really entertaining after the initial startle.
No I like cats but some can look scary if they have no ears or something or those hairless cats, those are creepy.
I have two beautiful kitties named Light and Dark. My avatar is little Darkie.
FP
a samoyed dog sasha, a ginger cat garf and a hamster nibbles
I have a cat and his name is Max
i have a 2 pound maltese and her name is snowflake!
a kitty named nick
Ozzie.
German Shep/lab mix.
Kitty - Sage
2 Chinchillas- Preston and Mitchell
2 Birds (English Budgies) - Jake and Joy
Goldilocks is my golden retriever
Miss Whiskers is my fancy rat
Micky & Mallory are my cats
Scottish Terrier (dog) named Ollie!
(how is it actually possible for someone to give you a thumbs down on a question like this?!?……well i know it is possible but why would they?!?! i mean its not exactly a right or wrong answer…..)
Dog named Gypsy.
3 Months Old just baught it today so happy but he hasnt eaten yet
but its getting there